There has to be something special about an island where the people celebrate every full moon as if it is their last day on earth and where rocks shaped like human sex organs are major attractions. This is Koh Samui, an island in the Gulf of Thailand, which has become one of the hottest destinations in Asia.Once the secret haunt of backpackers, who made the 35km trip from the Thai mainland in rickety fishing boats, Samui now has a new international airport to cater for the increasing number of sun-seekers looking for a unique trip . And Samui is certainly different. From the airport with its open-sided thatched terminal buildings to the jungle health spas, this island has managed to carve out a unique image.
Backpackers still rent tiny huts on the beach and spend their days swinging in hammocks , but alongside them super-luxury hotels and trendy restaurants are springing up to cater for a new breed of free- spending tourist. They shop for designer outfits at exclusive boutiques; sip cocktails at Brazilian and Scandinavian bars; dine out on anything from classical French cuisine to Indian biryani and Korean bibimbap; boogie to the sounds of international deejays; and sleep in five- star villas with private pools and Jacuzzis. The Samui of today is far more hip than hippie.
But back to the full-moon celebrations. These all-night parties actually take place on the neighbouring island of Koh Phangan, but it is the flood of revellers boating across from Samui that make them swing. From early afternoon, people laden with alcohol and other party substances start arriving . The beach at Haad Rin is packed by sunset. As music blares from huge speakers strung along the beach, up to 30000 party animals dance, kiss and cuddle till dawn. Plain-clothed policemen mingle with the crowd, but this is still one wild, wild party. And it happens every month, whatever the weather.While the full-moon parties may not lure the honeymooners and family folk, there are still plenty of other places to let your hair down. The most popular nightclub on the island, Green Mango, has become the centre of a rowdy strip of bars and clubs, while Bangkok’s renowned Q Bar has opened a branch on a hill overlooking the main tourist area of Chaweng Beach. For some light-hearted titillation, there are transvestite shows, where the “girls ” strut their stuff.
For many years, Samui lay in the shadow of Thailand’s most popular island resort, Phuket. But after the tsunami three years ago, many travellers opted for Samui, which was untouched by the tragedy. It has a charm that seduces visitors like few other islands. It may not be blessed with Phuket’s abundance of perfect swimming beaches, but Samui comes up trumps when it comes to health spas, eco-friendly excursions and lavish villas with breath-taking views of the coast.For tourists, there are three must-see attractions: a massive golden Buddha statue at Bang Rak beach; the Ang Thong National Marine Park, a string of undeveloped islands offering great diving and snorkelling; and the Grandmother and Grandfather rocks, strangely shaped like human sex organs. Few tourists return home without a photograph of themselves giggling in front of these edifices.
The real charm of Samui is that, despite its alluring trendiness , one can still find pockets of rural island life. Get up before dawn to watch orange-robed monks collecting alms in the streets. Go to a Muay Thai boxing match to discover that the quiet Thais can get pretty heated when it comes to supporting their favourites. Find a traditional Chinese shophouse, where you can buy herbal cures for your aches and pains. Or visit the Buddhist temple, where you can see the mummified body of a monk who died in a meditating position.
Be sure to head for one of the Thai markets inland and taste real Thai food. S pecialities include yam khai hoy men, a salad of sea urchin roe, and tom som waay, a sour soup made from octopus. And you must try khao man thua khiaow, rice cooked in coconut milk with dried beans.
You can trek up one of the mountains and find a lookout spot where the view is of undisturbed coconut groves fringed by the dark blue ocean. When you have to leave and go home, the sight from the plane will probably be of the Big Buddha glinting in the sun and little pockets of holidaymakers sprawled along the white sandy beaches.
The question won’t be whether you will return, the question will be when.
This article first appeared in the Sunday Times Travel and Food magazine in June 2008
