Shoe drama ends


The shoe emergency is over. Last night two pairs of spanking new size 13 slip-slops arrived in Phuket on a flight from Hong Kong.

Within hours, I was sporting my new footwear - and it felt like I was walking on the clouds! The shoes were brought over from South Africa by my friend, Larry, who found them in a shop in Somerset West, Cape Town. Apparently, the factory in Port Elizabeth that makes the outsize slip-slops that I love has closed down. Larry found 8 pairs in the CT shop and bought two, so that I could see if they fitted (size 15 is my normal size).

I am delighted to report that they fit perfectly, so when he gets back to South Africa he will rush to the store and buy their remaining stock. A big thanks to all those who have gone out in search of shoes for me. I now have details of stockists from Durban, Johannesburg and Cape Town to check out.


Long live the slip-slops!

My phone is my Ferrari

When it comes to status symbols, what do you think my Thai friends rate tops? That, is apart from being closely related to a military general or the prime minister, which trumps everything. Could it be the latest BMW? A condominium in Bangkok? A degree from Yale or Harvard? Or a wardrobe full of Dolce and Gabbana outfits?

Oh, no. The one thing that can lift your image into the stratosphere is to have the very latest mobile phone. Before anyone else, even before it hits the local outlets. Only then will you truly have made it.

Jokes aside, the latest phone is a must-have if you want to be taken seriously. I have learnt that, in the world of certain status-seeking Thais, nothing defines you more than the latest Nokia or Samsung. You'll be the envy of your friends, desperately trying to hide their six-month old models in their fake Gucci bags.

It doesn't matter if you can't afford any airtime and the phone can only be used to receive calls. No-one cares, having the phone glued to your ear is all that counts.

While many of the foreigners hold onto their old-model phones and have the attitude that 'a phone's just a phone', that is certainly not the case here. The Thais can tell the price of any phone you care to mention. They know every ringtone available on the planet and there isn't an accessory that they haven't tried. Certainly, a few diamond studs can make a phone just a little more alluring.

If you are starting to doubt my words, let me tell you a story. When I started working, I had to open a new bank account for my salary deposit. So I went off to the Patong branch of Siam Commercial Bank and asked to open a new account. I ended up at a desk with a young Thai women in her early 20's writing down my particulars. Her English was rudimentary, but we managed to painstakingly go through the basics; name, address, visa number, work permit details, etc, etc.

Then there was a section for monthly earnings. It had different check boxes for 0-5,000 baht, 5,000-10,000, 10,000-20,000 and so on, the last category being 50,000+ (around R12,000). Without asking me, she ticked the 0-5000 baht section. I was a little startled, but started wondering if it was in US dollar currency or per week.

When a manager came over to check that the form had been filled in correctly, he seemed startled by my meagre earnings and asked me: "Excuse me, sir, is this correct?", pointing at the 0-5,000 baht category. As sweetly as possible, I showed him the correct one.

He swung round and, in Thai, asked the girl to explain. Her reply: " But look at his phone!" One look at my three-year-old Nokia was enough for her to confirm that this farang (foreigner) was on the skids. It was inconceivable to her that anyone with access to more than 5000 baht wouldn't rush out and buy a new phone.


This obsession seems to have spread throughout the society. It's not uncommon to see a motorcycle taxi driver or a gardener earning 5000 baht a month pull out a 15000 baht cellphone. And no businessman would dare head for a meeting without a phone that takes emails and connects to the Internet. If you've got it, you've gotta flaunt it. And, please, please, please, don't even think of giving your girlfriend (or boyfriend) your old phone when you buy the latest one. Are you crazy? Who would want that old thing? On the scale of insulting your loved one, you have hit the jackpot.

I have tried to lend my old phone to Thai friends who have lost theirs, but they would not accept my kind offer. Most certainly, they would rather not have a phone than be seen with an old, cheap model. Mind you, when your Western status symbol (a Porsche or Renault cabriolet) is at the service station, would you like business associates or school friends to see you driving past in a borrowed bashed-in, doorless old VW beetle?

When a phone is important to your image, you need to make sure it is seen, so you can't be shy about answering it in company. Oh, no, you gotta take those calls. Just remember, only cheap phones actually ring. Any half-decent model plays the latest hit song instead. If you don't receive a call, don't despair. Whip it out and start taking photographs. What, your phone doesn't have a camera? Throw it in the bin - now!

The only advantage of having an outdated version of one of the very cheapest phones Nokia ever built is that it is completely safe - no-one would dream of stealing it. So, it's the best insurance around. You'll be thought of as a cheapskate or a pauper, but you'll always have a phone to call home - if you can afford the call, that is.

Inside a gogo bar

Visitors to Thailand are often intriqued as to what exactly goes on in the infamous gogo bars and how the 'system' works. Very few Thais feel inclined to explain this in great detail and many farangs (foreigners) will either plead ignorance or begin their answers with: "I've never been to one, but I believe....."

Well, I have frequented gogo bars and am quite happy to explain the ins and outs of the industry. Thailand's gogo bars first gained notoriety during the Vietnam War era, when word spread of the bars where lovely girls wriggled up and down poles in order to seduce their customers. Many of the poles have disappeared from the bars, but the modus operandi remains the same.

The girls dance in shifts on the stage, usually located in the centre of the bar. They are usually dressed in skimpy bras and panties and sometimes wear high boots or high-heels to enhance their stature. They usually have numbers pinned somewhere on their skimpy outfits.
Customers sit around drinking expensive drinks, eyeing the girls on stage. If one takes their fancy, they can ask the 'mamasan' (the bar manager) or one of the waiters to ask a girl to sit with him. He usually identifies her by her number. When she is seated, the customer is obliged to buy a drink for her (she will usually end up with a watered-down Coke at the price of a glass of champagne). The cost will be added to his bill, which is usually placed in a small holder in front of him.

If, after a short discussion and a close and personal discussion, he is not interested in pursuing this relationship, he is expected to give her a small tip of 100-200 baht for sharing some time with him. She will return to the stage and he is free to select another damsel who catches his eye.

However, if he and the girl hit it off, he will ask her if she would like to accompany him to his hotel or a short-time room. She will nearly always agree (unless she has another booking or really finds him objectionable). The mamasan or waiter is told of the deal, and a "bar fine" of 200-400 baht (R45-90) is added to the bill. The rationale for this is that the bar needs to recompensed for losing one of its dancers for the night!

While they were seated together, the customer may or may not have discussed his particular requirements for the evening and a price for these services with the lady, but there will be a 'going price' which regulars will know. This price remains a secret to first-timers and the ignorant and will only be brought up if the customer pays anything less. The hope, of course, is that the lusty and rich customer pays way over the regular rate (anything from 1000 baht to 2500 baht).

Many people find gogo bars very sad and unsettling. Some of them are, especially if the girls look too desperate for a customer or are just shuffling around on stage disinterestedly. However, many of the more upmarket bars can be entertaining for customers and, sometimes, for the girls as well.

Note: The gogo bars are not the same as the "ping pong" bars, in which artists perform extraordinary acts with ping pong balls, coke bottles and cigarettes. These bars are frowned upon by virutally everyone in Thailand and the few that remain are mostly rip-off joints. Avoid them - they really are depressing.

If you do visit a gogo bar, you should always remember that these girls are not always here by choice. Many are doing this line of work to support their families. They are nice, decent girls and many dream of one day being able to settle down with a husband and children. The least you can do is treat them with kindness and respect.

Likewise, you need to remember that love is not for sale here. It is very easy to fall for seductive charms and tall tales that are solely aimed at easing more money out of your wallet. The "rich foreigner loses everything to Thai girl" stories abound and, although they seem insane, most of them are true.

There are also male gogo bars, and, although, far fewer than the lady bars, operate in exactly the same manner. Most of the customers are Western and Asian men, but an increasing number of Asian women are frequenting these bars.

However, the number of gogo bars overall is declining in favour of so-called "bar beers" (beer bars) throughout Thailand. Here the girls sit around the bar in ordinary clothes (usually jeans and revealing tops) and chat up customers. The atmosphere is generally more relaxed and friendly, and the girls are often very entertaining and aces at the various bar games. If you and a girl strike up a friendship, though, you will probably still have to pay the bar a "fine" or "off fee". And so the business goes on.

Waiter, there's a fish in my TV

Can you imagine dining out in a restaurant where the tables are set on platforms in an ancient tree? Can you picture yourself digging into a delicious curry while live fish swim around inside old TV sets and a miniature train speeds past on its circular route between the tables? Yes, there is such a place. It looks like a museum for the world's most amazing bric-a-brac, but it is a real, live restaurant. And it's one of my favourite spots in Phuket.

The name of this totally bizarre restaurant is Thammachat (rough translation: The Natural). It is located in a small street in Phuket Town, just down the road from a Chinese temple, and has been there for decades. Many of the tables are old Singer sewing machines (the ones with the pedal that your granny used to have), so you can pedal away for exercise as you fill your tummy. A family-run business, it is always packed with locals enjoying a night out and expats and holidaymakers who have found out about it.

The food is delicious and the prices are excellent. An average meal will set you back about 150 baht (around R35). You can bring along your own booze or buy a bottle there. It will be set up on a drinks trolley with ice and mixers. One of the waiters will be in attendance, topping up the glasses and making sure everyone is well supplied with all the food and drink their heart desires.

Some of our favourite dishes here are a mouth-watering red duck curry, delicious beef massaman curry and chicken with cashew nuts. The dishes come with a big bowl of rice, which is placed in the centre of the table for people to top up their plates. The menu also boasts delicacies such as bird and frog, but we have yet to venture down that path. For dessert, there is nothing to beat fresh, sliced mango served with sticky rice and a coconut sauce.

The frozen fruit shakes are simply the best - my favourite being coconut and lemon. But the runaway winner among farangs (foreigners) is always the watermelon shake. One taste and you are hooked.

Whether you sit downstairs (at the root of the tree) or upstairs on one of the platform levels, you will be surrounded by the most amazing souvenirs and bric-a-brac which has accumulated over the years. Hanging from the ceiling, from the balconies, fans and walls, it ranges from traditional Thai farming implements to cheap and tacky national symbols from a host of countries. The Brits and Norwegians have done a good job of keeping their flags flying, but I have yet to spot something from South Africa.

So, if you have a plastic Union Buildings that lights up and plays Die Stem, a traditional Zulu shield or an old Springbok rugby jersey, there is a 'natural' home for it in Phuket. I will make sure it gets a prime spot in this wonderworld of kitsch.

* The Natural Restaurant (Thammachat) , 62/5 Soi Phutorn Bangkok Road, Phuket Town, 83000 Thailand Phone: (66) 076.224.287

The buffalo and the lottery

Like elsewhere in the world, the lottery is a big thing in Thailand. There are only two draws a month and the excitement and drama of choosing a lucky number results in some fascinating tales. The end-October draw was no exception. This time it was all about a half-human buffalo. I kid you not.

This week villagers in Srisaket’s Khun Han district have been flocking to pay their respects to the body of a buffalo calf. According to the local believers, this animal had what looked like a human face. But that's not all - it had the ability to transmit the winning numbers for the lottery draw.

As dutifully reported in the local newspaper, the calf died soon after birth, but not before its' owners noticed that it looked like a person. The farmers - whose names mean Smile and Think - said it had human-like nose, mouth and ears. Its legs were spreadeagled, resembling a sleeping person. However, without thinking more of it, they buried the corpse in a field.

That night the farmer's wife had a dream and her ancestors told her from beyond the grave that she should dig up the calf and conduct a religious ceremony for it. The calf was exhumed and the ceremony was duly performed.

But word had spread about this amazing animal and villagers flocked to catch a glimpse of it as it lay in "state" in the farmer's house. People brought flowers and money. Others dusted it with powder and asked the calf to make a lucky number appear in their mind so that they could win the upcoming lottery. And, due to some lucky gamblers, a legend was born.


Not everyone was a believer, though. A senior monk from the local temple, was reported to be "dubious" about conducting a Buddhist ritual around the rotting corpse of a buffalo. "Nowhere in Buddhist canon is there anything about the need to pay respects to animal ," the monk allegedly said. “The Buddhist people of Srisaket should not be gullible. I would like to remind them that it is best to conduct their lives in strict accordance with the teachings of the Buddha.”
That's all and well, but in this small village the tale of the half-human buffalo will live on for many generations and remain another legend of how to dream up a lucky number for the lottery.

My home in Chiang Mai


This week I have been in Chiang Mai, Thailand's Rose of the North, and that means I am taking advantage of one of the country's best bargains - a lovely hotel where you can stay in luxury for a pittance. The Viangbua Mansion is truly a gem when it comes to affordable accommodation.






Just imagine it - a lovely big room with breakfast for only 900 baht a night (that's less than R200 for a room sleeping two people!) And, as you can see by the pictures here, the hotel is no budget affair. Rooms are large, with a separate seating area, a balcony with a view of the Doi Suthep mountains, satellite television, air conditioning, refrigerator, en-suite bathroom with hot shower and a (very firm) big double bed - or two singles. Security is excellent. An electronic key card gets you into your room - and is needed to activate the lift (which only takes you to the floor where your room is located).


And the staff are very friendly and hospitable and certainly treat regulars like old friends. They will advise you what to buy cheaply at the market next door, call a taxi for you, serve you coffee on the terrace overlooking the street (even when the coffee bar staff are off-duty) and teach you a word or two of Thai. They are genuinely nice and certainly not just doing it for a tip!







You can book directly with the hotel. The 900 baht a night rate even includes rates and taxes and breakfast for two! If you stay a week, the rate goes down to 800 baht a night. Whatever way you look at it, it represents incredible value. And the hotel, which also has serviced apartments for monthly hire, does not rip you off with the extras. The mini bar prices are the same as the nearby Seven 11 outlet, with a can of Coke at 15 baht (about R3,50). You can order room service from the restaurant at amazingly low prices.

Here are some examples:
Fried rice with pork or chicken 30 baht
Fried rice with shrimps 40 baht
Rice with teriyaki pork 40 baht
Fried rice noodles with pork or chicken 35 baht
Freshly brewed coffee 25 baht
Cuppacino 30 baht
Bottle of Singha beer 30 baht
Bottle of Heineken beer 38 baht
Coke 12 baht
All the above are priced less than R10 (45 baht at current exchange rates).

The eight-floor hotel is located out of the city centre area, but in a lovely part of town with a big Thai market next door and close to many bars and nightspots. It is near one of the local universities, so there are plenty of young people around, keeping the area lively till all hours of the night. Nearby is a great outdoor garden bar and a fabulous restaurant (which also sells antiques) built around a Buddhist shrine.







The hotel also has a big parking area, a gym, a coffee bar and wireless internet access. Check it out on http://www.viangbuamansion-chiangmai.com/