A chat in the smoking room

What would you do if a doctor told you that you only had six months to live? Every time I hear of a patient being handed a 'death sentence', I wonder how I would react in the same situation. I imagine most people believe they would go out and "have a ball", running up their credit cards and doing all the things they had only dreamt of doing. However, I have always suspected that the more likely reaction would be to rather focus on staying healthy and fighting the disease.

Well, I met someone facing a life-threatening disease last week. Strangely, we encountered each other in the smoking lounge of the Phuket airport, hardly the most medical environment. A middle-aged Thai man sitting opposite me looked up and asked me: "How much do you weigh?" Before I could even answer, he said: "Do you enjoy sex?" I was startled and wondered if the directness of the questions was because the man was speaking in a second language. Luckily, he never gave me a chance to answer before he launched off into his tale.

He said he had just returned from a trip to the new Venetian Resort in Macau. Describing how you can "go by boat to your room" and how lavish the suites were, he said that he had been gambling heavily recently. The week before he had been at the Genting Resort in Malaysia. "I've been there," I jumped in, but he rambled on about how many women he had bedded, how much he was drinking and what a time he was having. He said he was determined to spend as much of his wealth and enjoy himself as much as he could before he died.

He then pulled up his shirt and showed me a large scar running up his stomach and chest. He told me he had been diagnosed with cancer and had been given six months to live. He had undergone the operation in a bid to get rid of the cancer, but the surgeon found that it had already spread throughout his body. Now there was nothing they could do.

I was wondering how much of this story I could believe when he passed me his business card, explaining that he was the owner of one of the big Thai groups operating on the island. "If you want anything, give me a call," he said, and then ambled off. I was stunned. If it was true, why would he volunteer this information to a complete stranger. Through the glass wall of the smoking room, I saw him joining his family; a middle-aged woman I presumed was his wife and three young women, with two babies. Another man came into the smoking room and, almost bizarrely, pointed out the man who had just left and said: "He's one of the richest men on the island."

He and his family were seated in the business class cabin alongside me for our flight to Bangkok and then on to Chiang Mai. I couldn't help watching him and wondering about his life. Before the meal, he swallowed a handful of tablets. Then he insisted that a little girl of about four, probably his granddaughter, sit next to him. She curled up in a ball and fell asleep. He tucked a blanket around her and sat with his arm over her for the rest of the flight. He just sat there, gazing through the window.

On reflection, I guess the man was going through one of the stages that people go through in these situations: one is denial, others are anger and acceptance...I guess he might have been in the denial phase. One thing I do know is that no person is in a position to judge another in a case like this. If gambling away some of his fortune made him happy, so be it. Let him bed-hop and cut a swathe through every casino in Asia if it makes it easier to accept his doctor's verdict.

The whole episode gave me cause for reflection. What would I do if I was in the same situation? Go on a mad spending spree? Live it up in the best hotels? Return home to South Africa? Go wild in Thailand? And who would I want to be with? My nearest and dearest? My long-time friends?

Or would I prefer the company of those who know nothing about me? Like this man, would I end telling my story to strangers in airport smoking lounges? I wonder...

My home in Chiang Mai

This week I have been in Chiang Mai, Thailand's Rose of the North, and that means I am taking advantage of one of the country's best bargains - a lovely hotel where you can stay in luxury for a pittance. The Viangbua Mansion is truly a gem when it comes to affordable accommodation.






Just imagine it - a lovely big room with breakfast for only 900 baht a night (that's less than R200 for a room sleeping two people!) And, as you can see by the pictures here, the hotel is no budget affair. Rooms are large, with a separate seating area, a balcony with a view of the Doi Suthep mountains, satellite television, air conditioning, refrigerator, en-suite bathroom with hot shower and a (very firm) big double bed - or two singles. Security is excellent. An electronic key card gets you into your room - and is needed to activate the lift (which only takes you to the floor where your room is located).


And the staff are very friendly and hospitable and certainly treat regulars like old friends. They will advise you what to buy cheaply at the market next door, call a taxi for you, serve you coffee on the terrace overlooking the street (even when the coffee bar staff are off-duty) and teach you a word or two of Thai. They are genuinely nice and certainly not just doing it for a tip!







You can book directly with the hotel. The 900 baht a night rate even includes rates and taxes and breakfast for two! If you stay a week, the rate goes down to 800 baht a night. Whatever way you look at it, it represents incredible value. And the hotel, which also has serviced apartments for monthly hire, does not rip you off with the extras. The mini bar prices are the same as the nearby Seven 11 outlet, with a can of Coke at 15 baht (about R3,50). You can order room service from the restaurant at amazingly low prices.

Here are some examples:
Fried rice with pork or chicken 30 baht
Fried rice with shrimps 40 baht
Rice with teriyaki pork 40 baht
Fried rice noodles with pork or chicken 35 baht
Freshly brewed coffee 25 baht
Cuppacino 30 baht
Bottle of Singha beer 30 baht
Bottle of Heineken beer 38 baht
Coke 12 baht
All the above are priced less than R10 (45 baht at current exchange rates).

The eight-floor hotel is located out of the city centre area, but in a lovely part of town with a big Thai market next door and close to many bars and nightspots. It is near one of the local universities, so there are plenty of young people around, keeping the area lively till all hours of the night. Nearby is a great outdoor garden bar and a fabulous restaurant (which also sells antiques) built around a Buddhist shrine.







The hotel also has a big parking area, a gym, a coffee bar and wireless internet access. Check it out on http://www.viangbuamansion-chiangmai.com/

Questions and Answers

How did you end up in Phuket?

I came here on holiday. When the holidays started becoming more frequent, I started thinking that it might be a good idea to stay here for an extended period. I moved here for three months, then went back to South Africa for six months to make up my mind. Finally in October of 2002, I packed up my bags and moved to Thailand.

Do you ever regret it?

NEVER. I am happy and content - and what more could one ask for? Thailand is a wonderful, wonderful country and the Thai people are something special. Living on this island is like living a dream. I love it

Do you miss anything?

Of course. I miss my family and friends, but luckily many of them have been to visit. At times, when I catch Supersport or M-Net on TV I feel a little nostalgic. Like many expats, one often needs to talk to people who have a shared history (and understand how you feel about things), and visitors from SA serve that need. However, the thing I miss most is the MEAT. Many times I just ache for a roast leg of lamb or a good braai. The local meat is not great, and the Aussie meat we can buy is really not the same as back home.

Where do you live?

I spent the first five years in Patong Beach, which is the main tourist zone on the island, a crazy town filled with bars, restaurants, massage parlours, markets, etc - its a fantastic place to stay and I had a wonderful time there. But it has got really busy and I felt like a more ordered life, so I have moved to a little townhouse in an area called Chalong, about 20kms from Patong, close to work and some really nice beaches frequented mainly by locals and expats. I guess you could say I have become more of an expat than a 'long-stay holidaymaker' now.

Is it expensive?

Not really. It used to be much cheaper, but the island has developed enormously in the past five years and prices have risen. Also the exchange rate for the Rands I bring in is not good at all. However, when I look at the cost of living in SA, I guess it is about the same now. The rent for my one-bedroom townhouse is 8500 baht (which is around R2000 a month). A meal at a Thai restaurant costs the equivalent of R10, while a meal at a Western restaurant would cost about R70-R100. Cigarettes are about R12 a pack and a bottle of 100 Pipers Whisky about R80. I bought a big Toyota Vigo 4-door bakkie, which cost me 750,000 baht (which was around R120,000 at the time), great value.

Do you work?

Yes, I work for an international Internet hotel booking site, http://www.hoteltravel.com/, where I edit a travel magazine and newsletter which goes out to 400,000 subscribers every month. And I still do my travel column for the Sunday Times every week and other work for Johnnic. The biggest advantage of my job is that I work for three weeks and then have one week off. So I am free to travel around for 9 days a month.

Where do you travel on your week off?

I usually travel in Thailand, to Bangkok (a wonderfully exciting city), Pattaya (the unbelievable coastal resort that must be the sex capital of the world!) or Chiang Mai (a great city in the north of the country). I have been spending more time in Krabi, a coastal resort that is on the mainland across the bay from Phuket. Its relatively undeveloped and has incredible scenery. Its also cheap and relaxing. Of course, I also travel further and have been to Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bali and Sri Lanka.

Didn't you own a bar?

Yes, a friend and I had a bar for a year in Patong, which was crazy fun. The bar was actually very successful and we had a good time. But when the rent was hiked we decided to call it a day. I was quite relieved actually because I don't really want to spend every night of my life in a bar. I don't regret it, though, it was an amazing experience.

So, what's the social life like?

Wonderful. I go to the beach a lot, dine out, have massages and enjoy island life. I spend less time in the gogo bars and the other fun places in Patong and am more than content to sit on the verandah of my friend's guesthouse in Patong and watch the world go by. Now that I live on the other side of the island, I have discovered many really nice places, but they are certainly more laid-back and casual than the places where the tourists go! One of the things I really like about living here is that in many respects it resembles a small town, with a real community feel, but has the facilities of a major city - it certainly runs 24 hours a day and you can find whatever you want anytime!!

Last year you broke your ankle. How's the foot doing now?

What a business that was. I slipped on the pavement as I was walking to my car at 6am - on my way to work! (believe it or not) - and my foot was just at the wrong angle. Luckily my friends here (and the many visitors from SA) took good care of me. I was going to have an operation, but the specialist decided to put my leg in plaster instead. That was a VERY difficult time - no swimming, no proper showers, everything was a struggle. It has taken a long time to heal, but is quite okay now. It will never be the same as it was, but I can walk around quite happily now.
What is the health care like there? Fantastic. We have two top international hospitals on the island. I use the Bangkok Phuket Hospital and the standards are exceptionally high. And its not really expensive. Many tourists come here specifically for medical treatment, like heart surgery and facelifts, etc. Bangkok has one of the top 'medical tourism' hospitals in the world, Bumrungrad Hospital, so I certainly don't worry about health care standards here.

Will you ever go back to live in South Africa?

Well, never say never. However, I think that if I was to move from Thailand, I would probably try out another part of the world. There are just so many other cultures and lifestyles to experience. I need that excitement in my life. Of course, when I am really old I may just yearn to be closer to my family and the other things that make South Africa my home. Until then, I am going to have as much fun as I can.

It's hell choosing a hotel

Once you decide to come to Thailand on holiday, you need to decide on a hotel. Well, you have an incredible choice.

I am often asked to recommend accommodation and give advice for a visit, but that is incredibly difficult. I probably know too much, so the options are endless. And, of course, it depends on your expectations and your budget.

In the holiday resorts, there is a HUGE difference in the prices for low season and high season (November-April). In places like Phuket you will pay at least 100% more... and sometimes up to three or five times the price you can get in the off season. So, be aware, that you won't be able to get any real bargains if you decide to come over the Christmas/New Year period.

As far as I am concerned, the seasonal surcharge is not really warranted. It does rain a little more in the low season and is a little hotter, but this does not justify the big difference in prices. The real reason for the big hike is that European travellers choose to come here during their winter. It's also winter here, but that means perfect weather!

While it will always be more expensive over the Christmas/New Year period, I think that the prices will level off as tourists from Asia and other regions of the world become more important. But, for the moment, the Europeans are paying through the nose to escape their icy winter.

Before you decide to book a hotel, do check out the packages which include hotels and flights. Sometimes you can get great value, although this is unlikely over the peak periods.

As for where to go, I think you should spend no more than three nights in Bangkok and then head for Phuket or Chiang Mai (or any of the other resorts that take your fancy). However, I honestly believe that Phuket is the best destination. It has the best beaches by far - and enough of everything else. It certainly is not over-developed - you will always find a quiet beach if that is what you want. Don't believe travel agents who tell you that it is out of fashion now and full of package tourists, and that you should choose less-developed islands like Koh Samui, Koh Lanta or Koh Chang. That's nonsense - Phuket remains the number one destination because it is still the best. Perhaps the other islands are paying a higher commission to fill their empty rooms. Phuket doesn't need to.

Let's start with hotels in Bangkok. I can only mention a few, so please post a comment below if you want information on a specific hotel you are offered. I know most of them, so will gladly pass on my view. Here are my favourites:

PENINSULA HOTEL - the most fabulous hotel, located on the river and with amazing faciities and service. Has been voted the top hotel in the world and regularly wins the best hotel in Asia. It is expensive, but is great value by international standards and a real treat. Cheaper alternatives are the Shangri-La across the river and the Hilton Millennium. Another good choice for families is the Marriott Riverside. These are all five star hotels and really give you a great feel for the best Bangkok has to offer. You can get a room at the Peninsula for about 250-300 US dollars a night.

SILOM SERENE - a comfortable three-star hotel in the heart of the Silom area, good value and within walking distance of the skytrain and shops, etc.

SIAM HERITAGE - a lovely Thai-style boutique hotel in the Silom-Suriwong area, which has a small pool on the roof and a great atmosphere. Very busy, vibey area, but quite close to the redlight Patpong area but this wont really bother you as you wont venture into that area by mistake! The hotel is an oasis and is really very well located otherwise.

BUDDY LODGE - a great little hotel in the Khao San Road area, which is backpacker territory. However, the hotel is very comfortable, cosmopolitan and safe. Great fun, exciting vibe and a nice introduction to Bangkok.

PATHUMWAN PRINCESS - a really nice luxury chain hotel which is part of a huge shopping complex, MBK and linked to the skytrain. Very good hotel in perfect location for shopping and attractions - and the airconditioned mall offers you the opportunity to shop without even going outside.

THE DAVIS - A luxurious Thai-style hotel in the Sukhumvit shopping area. Lovely rooms and atmosphere and great value for what you get.

If you really want something different, you can stay in the smallest hotel in the world, THE IBRIK RESORT, which is on the river, or THE AURUM, another small boutique hotel on the river. Both are really special, but you may need the facilities that bigger hotels offer for a first visit.

Of course, there are many chain hotels like Holiday Inn, Intercontinental, Hyatt, etc all of which are good, but the ones above have a particularly Thai or Bangkok atmosphere, which makes them particularly attractive.

PHUKET HOTELS
Wow! many choices here as well. The main tourist zone is Patong Beach, which attracts the biggest number of visitors. It also has all the saucy nightlife and the best shopping. It may not seem to be the best resort for children, but plenty of families choose it. I know many people with young families who won't stay anywhere else. They love the buzz of Patong. It is certainly very interesting and exciting, with a huge shopping centre with all the facilities.

The best value resorts here are the HOLIDAY INN (the Busakorn wing is splendid), the PATONG BEACH HOTEL (a good three-star family choice in a perfect location), the GRACELAND PHUKET (big new hotel on the beachfront) and the BURASARI (boutique hotel close to beach, very popular). New hotels opening this season include the MERCURE PATONG (one road back from the beach) and the MILLENIUM PATONG at the big Jungceylon shopping complex, one block from the beach and a great central location).

However, for families, the neighbouring resort areas of KARON BEACH and KATA BEACH are generally considered better (depends who you ask, of course!).

CLUB MED has a magnificent location on Kata Beach. The hotel is of three-star standard, but with acres of space and perfect for the beach. Plenty of facilities for children. However, it is pretty expensive and the meals-included tarriff means that you miss out the chance to eat out at different restaurants every night, which I think is part of the Thailand holiday experience. Hotels close to Club Med include the KATA BEACH RESORT (right on the beach as well) and the CENTARA KATA RESORT (also known as the Central Kata Resort, which is behind Club Med, so you have a a walk to the beach, but the resort is very nice.)

Hotels occupying their own beaches include the LE MERIDIEN PHUKET RESORT (fabulous beach, just over the hill from Patong) and KATHA THANI resort, which is over the hill from Kata beach. Both are considered prime resorts, but rather overpriced in peak season.

KARON BEACH has some lovely hotels all along its magnificent white beach. These include the Hilton (very big), the Movenpick and the Centara Karon Resort (in a lively area one block from beach). A hotel I like very much is THE OLD PHUKET, which is a very traditional Thai hotel close to the beach. Its small and has a lovely atmosphere and super rooms, with a rooftop pool.

It's worth mentioning that Phuket also has an area known as LAGUNA, which is a tropical paradise along Bangtoa Beach. It includes six hotel, including the magnificnet Banyan Tree, the Sheraton and the Dusit Laguna. Great facilities for families and a very safe, manicured environment, but I personally prefer the slightly chaotic atmosphere of the coastal villages like Patong, etc with many restaurants, bars, Thai massage shops and open markets.

However, if you want the biggest bargain on the island, try out the little guesthouse owned by my friend Tanit. Its called Le Tanjong (check out the picture I have posted). It offers the cleanest rooms in Patong, with comfortable double beds, great linen and pillows, air-conditioning, a fridge, a safety box in the room and a hot-water show and toilet. The rooms are not huge, but they are really well maintained and he is a nice guy. It is located in the Paradise area of Patong Beach, which has gay bars on the one side and the lady gogo bars on the other. It's a lively, fun area close to all the shopping and restaurants and within walking distance of the beach. The best thing about it is the rates: In low season a room will cost you about 650 baht (that's about R160) a night and in peak season from 1200-1500 baht (R300-R400). It's fabulous value - and runs at 100% occupancy most of the year.

That's my selection for now. I will be adding to this list and making changes, so do keep coming back to check this posting. And, remember, I am more than happy to help out with information and suggestions. And for no commission!!