Can you imagine dining out in a restaurant where the tables are set on platforms in an ancient tree? Can you picture yourself digging into a delicious curry while live fish swim around inside old TV sets and a miniature train speeds past on its circular route between the tables? Yes, there is such a place. It looks like a museum for the world's most amazing bric-a-brac, but it is a real, live restaurant. And it's one of my favourite spots in Phuket.The name of this totally bizarre restaurant is Thammachat (rough
translation: The Natural). It is located in a small street in Phuket Town, just down the road from a Chinese temple, and has been there for decades. Many of the tables are old Singer sewing machines (the ones with the pedal that your granny used to have), so you can pedal away for exercise as you fill your tummy. A family-run business, it is always packed with locals enjoying a night out and expats and holidaymakers who have found out about it.The food is delicious and the prices are excellent. An average meal will set you back about 150 baht (around R35). You can bring along your own booze or buy a bottle there. It will be set up on a drinks trolley with ice and mixers. One of the waiters will be in attendance, topping up the glasses and making sure everyone is well supplied with all the food and drink their heart desires.
Some of our favourite dishes here are a mouth-watering red duck curry, delicious beef massaman curry and chicken with cashew nuts. The dishes come with a big bowl of rice, which is placed in the centre of the table for people to top up their plates. The menu also boasts delicacies such as bird and frog, but we have yet to venture down that path. For dessert, there is nothing to beat fresh, sliced mango served with sticky rice and a coconut sauce.The frozen fruit shakes are simply the best - my favourite being coconut and lemon. But the runaway winner among farangs (foreigners) is always the watermelon shake. One taste and you are hooked.
Whether you sit downstairs (at the root of the tree) or upstairs on one of the platform levels, you will be surrounded by the most amazing souvenirs and bric-a-brac which has accumulated over the years. Hanging from the ceiling, from the balconies, fans and walls, it ranges from traditional Thai farming implements to cheap and tacky national symbols from a host of countries. The Brits and Norwegians have done a good job of keeping their flags flying, but I have yet to spot something from South Africa.
So, if you have a plastic Union Buildings that lights up and plays Die Stem, a traditional Zulu shield or an old Springbok rugby jersey, there is a 'natural' home for it in Phuket. I will make sure it gets a prime spot in this wonderworld of kitsch.
* The Natural Restaurant (Thammachat) , 62/5 Soi Phutorn Bangkok Road, Phuket Town, 83000 Thailand Phone: (66) 076.224.287
